Getting Wired: Learn How To Check Your Ignition Wiring for
"Hot Leaks"

A proper ignition wiring set should be checked occasionally for any “hot leaks” which can be checked normally with an OHM meter, but you can see some gaps “jumping” thru the insulation while viewing the running engine in dim light (or darkness) w/the lid up. Some of the cheaper aftermarket wire sets have the metal ends (to the distibutor cap) just pierced RE: spiked) to the core wire which weren’t very good when they corroded and lost contact giving some intermittent ‘missing’ under loads.

The best kit available has the wire end caps soldered just like they were originally, the wires have 3-different lengths + the coil lead, the wire holders, O-rings, and the plug terminals are the Beru BE 4 which became available again after several years of being discontinued.

However, the latest Beru’s have an resister insert which is removable (under the screw) and should be checked w/the me w/a piece of 1/8” dia. copper tubing—it didn’t effect the radio that much, either. 

Once you have a good set of wires on your engine, you don’t need a spare set.

Spare plug terminals can be ‘tagging along’ in your spare parts box as they don’t take up much room. Other electrical parts? Points, condensor, cap, and rotor, but again, if they’re in good condition to start with on your engine, they could be used to help someone who didn’t keep his system in check.

Generator? no; just brushes, but they should be checked before any trip–easier to change ‘em at home vs. a cross-country trip; of course the generator itself should in good condition before starting any trip.

BY DICK WEISS